There were a couple requests for a tutorial for the raglan sleeve button placket I used for two of my Project Run & Play looks.
If I ever figure out pattern grading and digitizing, I might try to make this a pattern. For now, you will need your own raglan sleeve pattern to start with. I started with the Farbenmix Roxy pattern, but modified the sleeves and body.
These are the pattern pieces you will need. The front and back bodice, sleeve, button tab, and button facing. My button facing measures 1 1/2” wide by 3 1/4” long. The button tab measures 2 3/8” wide by 3 1/4” long. These dimensions will work well for 1/2” buttons. You may need to modify the length based on the length of your sleeve/bodice seam. I am also using 1/4” seam allowances.
First we are going to finish some of the edges on our pattern pieces. Serge (or zigzag) the front and back bodice a the sleeve seams. Then serge the sides of the sleeves.
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the button tab and button facing. Fold the button tab in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Serge the button facing along the bottom and right long edge. Serge the folded button tab along the bottom and right long edge.
Hem the sleeves.
Sew the button facing to bodice at the sleeve seam right sides together. The short raw edge should align with the neck, and the long raw edge should align with the sleeve seam. Stop your seam just before you get to the serged edge as shown.
Sew the folded button tab to the front edge of the sleeve right sides together. The short raw edge should be at the neck, and the serged edge should be along the front sleeve edge. Stop your seam just before you get to the serged edge as shown.
Press the facing and the tab out.
Pin the sleeve to the front bodice right sides together with the button tab and facing sticking out. Stitch the sleeve to the bodice from the sleeve hem to the place were you stopped the stitching on the button tab.
Stitch the bottom of the button tab and button facing together just above the seam finish from the sleeve seam out to the edge of the button tab.
Turn right side out.
Press the button facing to the wrong side of the front bodice.
At this point you can finish your neck edge. I cut a neck facing but you could also use bias binding. Fold the facing/binding around to the wrong side of the button placket and button facing, then stitch around the neck edge.
Fold the facing/binding to the wrong side of the neck encasing the raw edges and topstitch to secure. Sew button holes in the front bodice at the button facing. Attach buttons to the button tab.
This tutorial is a bit tricky since I can’t include the pattern pieces, so if you have any questions please leave a comment or shoot me an email from the contact page or the side bar.