The Hathaway Tank by Blank Slate Patterns is a great basic tank sewing pattern for woven fabrics. The pattern includes a store bought bias tape binding finish for the neckline and armholes. When sewing with delicate fabrics, I like to use self fabric bias binding or facing. "Self fabric" just mean the same fabric as the garment.
What makes this an easy bias binding method is that you don't have to press that delicate fabric into multiple folds before you attach it. Any tip that speeds up a sewing project is a benefit in my book.
The fabric for this Hathaway Tank is Telio Verona Cotton Rayon Voile. The fabric is thin without being too sheer. For my size medium tank, the pattern only required one yard of fabric with enough scraps to cut bias strips for the binding. Let's get to the tutorial!
Easy Bias Binding Tutorial
The easy bias binding tutorial will focus on binding the neckline of the tank, but the same application works for the armholes. You will need to first cut 1.5" strips of fabric on the bias grainline. The total length of your bias tape should be at least as long as the distance around the neckline plus 1". For tips on cutting and connecting strips of bias tape, check out the tutorial from Made by Rae. Once you have your strip, press the bias tape in half wrong sides together. I told you this was easier than creating single fold bias binding!!
Make sure you have sewn in your stay stitching at the neckline before you proceed or you will risk a wavy, stretched out neckline. Pin your folded bias strip right sides together along the neckline aligning the raw edges. It may help to press the bias into the curved shape of the neckline as you go.
Stitch the bias strip to the neckline with a 1/4" seam allowance starting and stopping 1-2" before the ends. Trim the ends as needed so you can create a 1/2" seam allowance along the short ends.
Open up the bias tape and stitch the short ends right sides together making sure you move the bodice pieces out of the way. Re-fold the bias tape and press. Join the previous stitching line around the neckline at 1/4" seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and press the seam allowance toward the bias. Understitch the bias tape by stitching close to the seam on the right side of the fabric catching the seam allowance underneath. Understitching helps the fabric to role to the inside of the garment making the bias invisible from the outside.
Press the bias to the wrong side of the neckline and stitch in place next to the inner fold.
Now your inside looks as pretty as the outside!! Bias facings in self fabric or even a fun contrast fabric are a great way to get a professional and personalized finish.
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