It’s raglan week over at Oliver + S for their recent release of the raglan t-shirt as a stand alone pattern. I figured this would be a great time to show you how I used another one of the Oliver + S patterns, the class picnic blouse, to create this raglan sleeve sweatshirt.
Let’s start with the pattern modifications. I sized down for this pattern since my fabric would have some stretch too it. I’m using a size 5 for my daughter when I would normally sew her a size 6. The picnic blouse pattern uses separate bodice pieces with a gathered front and back. To create a single front piece, fold the bodice and front pattern pieces in half and overlap the the bodice pattern piece with the front pattern piece by the seam allowance. The pattern pieces need to align at the sleeve since we are taking out the gather in the front.
Place the pattern pieces in this manner over new pattern tracing paper (I use freezer paper.)
Trace from the front bodice around the neckline and sleeve down the side seam and across the bottom hem. At this point you will need to connect the line at the front bodice down to the hem with a straight line.
This is the final front piece.
Repeat for the back bodice and back piece. Be sure to transfer the mark for the back sleeve for reference.
You are now ready to cut your fabric. Keep in mind that you will be cutting the pattern pieces on the fold of the fabric. I used a thrifted sweatshirt and an old skirt for mine, but you can certainly use any stretch fabric you’d like. Ribbed knit is needed for the neck band and hem band. I used the eyelet skirt as an overlay for the front of the sweatshirt, but this can be omitted.
Cut the front and back bodice and two sleeves. I cut the ribbed knit from the sweatshirt to use for the neck band and hem band. If you are using an overlay, cut a front bodice piece from the overlay.
Baste the overlay piece to the front piece on all sides.
Sew the sleeves to the front bodice using a stretch stitch. Finish and trim the seams. Attach the back panel at the sleeves. Finish and trim the seams. If there is any overhang of the sleeve pieces at the neckline trim it away.
Since the original picnic blouse pattern uses elastic in the sleeves, we are going to gather them up to get the fit right. Sew two rows of gathering stitches on each sleeve at the neckline.
Pull the bobbin threads to gather the sleeves until you have the desired neck opening.
Measure the neck opening. Cut Ribbed knit 2”-3” shorter than the neck measurement. I used the existing ribbing from the sweatshirt that was probably 2” wide. Press the ribbing in half along the long edge. Open up the ribbing and sew the short ends right sides together. Press the seam open and refold the ribbing in half.
Pin the ribbing right sides together to the neck edge aligning the raw edges. Align the ribbing seam with one of the back sleeve seams. Stretch the ribbing as you pin it around the neckline. Sew the ribbing to the neckline with a stretch stitch stretching the ribbing as needed.
Trim and finish the seam. Topstich from the right side with a stretch stitch at the front and back only, not at the gathered sleeves.
Sew the side seams from the sleeve hem to the bottom hem right sides together.
Attach the hem ribbing in the same manner as you did the neck ribbing. I used the existing ribbing from the sweatshirt that was probably 3.5” wide. Again, measure the length around the bottom hem and subtract 2-3” for the ribbing length.
Turn the sleeve hem under and hem. I used a double needle for this hem.
I love finding different ways to use patterns. It sure stretches the possibilities!!