Blank Slate Patterns Verbena Skirt

It has been said before and will be said again. One advantage to sewing is being able to fit someone that may be off the standard size chart. Such is the case for Avery. At 12 years old, she is 5'-3", which puts her outside of many girl's pattern, but she doesn't have the bust or hips for women's patterns. I am finding a few women's pattern I can adjust to work for her. The bonus is that I can justify a few pattern purchases as being for both of us!

This is the Verbena Dress by Blank Slate Patterns. One of the simplest sewing pattern hacks around is changing a dress into a skirt. By shortening the bottom ruffle tier and adding a waistband, you have an adorable skirt perfect for a tween. I love the Verbena method for attaching the bottom tier, because you end up with the cute ruffle edge without having to do a narrow hem or other finish.

I sewed up the skirt portion of the Verbena Dress and measured the waist opening. I cut two waistbands based on the measurement including seam allowances. One the waistband was sewn into a circle, I folded it wrong sides together and tucked the elastic band inside. Then, I attached the band to the skirt. 

Since the Verbena skirt tier has a 3/4 circle skirt, the twirl and swish factor is high. In double brushed poly fabric, it's like wearing a cloud.

Cropped Wyler Hoodie Pattern Hack

Now that the Wyler Hoodie Sew Along has wrapped up, it's time to play with hacking the Wyler Hoodie sewing pattern. For my original Wyler Hoodie, I made the sleeveless vest style adding my typical 1/2" in length.

For a fun hack of the pattern, I created a cropped version with an elasticized waistband. Simple and sporty.

The photo above is the inspiration behind this style. 

I wanted the look of the waistband with casings, and I have a tutorial for creating it below. For more gathers like the inspiration image, you would need to cut the waistband pieces wider than the pattern pieces.

To achieve the cropped look, I cut down the bodice pattern pieces by 3". I omitted the pockets since they would fall at an awkward height with the shortened bodice.

To create the elasticized waistband, sew the two waistband pieces right sides together at the short ends. Press the waistband in half wrong sides together. Divide the waistband in three sections, mine are about 1 1/4" apart, taking into account the 1/2" seam allowance to attach the waistband. Stitch two rows to create the casings with a stretch stitch. Leave a 2" gap in each row.

Insert elastic in the bottom two rows sewing the ends of the elastic together. Stitch the casings closed. I used 1" wide knit elastic. I judged the length of the elastic based on where the waistband would hit on my body. For ultimate customization, I even made the top elastic a bit shorter than the rest based again on where it hit on my body. A safe estimate is also to cut the elastic to match with width of the waistband.

For the top casing, sew the elastic into a circle and insert it between the two layers of fabric. Pin the elastic as close to the stitching line as possible. 

Place the waistband right sides together with the bodice and stitch along the raw edges being careful not the catch the elastic in the seam.

Done!

 As an added bonus, the extra elastic in the waistband gives a degree of tummy control, and who doesn't love that!

Easy Bias Binding Tutorial with the Hathaway Tank

The Hathaway Tank by Blank Slate Patterns is a great basic tank sewing pattern for woven fabrics. The pattern includes a store bought bias tape binding finish for the neckline and armholes. When sewing with delicate fabrics, I like to use self fabric bias binding or facing. "Self fabric" just mean the same fabric as the garment. 

What makes this an easy bias binding method is that you don't have to press that delicate fabric into multiple folds before you attach it. Any tip that speeds up a sewing project is a benefit in my book.

The fabric for this Hathaway Tank is Telio Verona Cotton Rayon Voile. The fabric is thin without being too sheer. For my size medium tank, the pattern only required one yard of fabric with enough scraps to cut bias strips for the binding. Let's get to the tutorial!

Easy Bias Binding Tutorial

The easy bias binding tutorial will focus on binding the neckline of the tank, but the same application works for the armholes. You will need to first cut 1.5" strips of fabric on the bias grainline. The total length of your bias tape should be at least as long as the distance around the neckline plus 1". For tips on cutting and connecting strips of bias tape, check out the tutorial from Made by Rae. Once you have your strip, press the bias tape in half wrong sides together. I told you this was easier than creating single fold bias binding!!

Make sure you have sewn in your stay stitching at the neckline before you proceed or you will risk a wavy, stretched out neckline. Pin your folded bias strip right sides together along the neckline aligning the raw edges. It may help to press the bias into the curved shape of the neckline as you go.

Stitch the bias strip to the neckline with a 1/4" seam allowance starting and stopping 1-2" before the ends. Trim the ends as needed so you can create a 1/2" seam allowance along the short ends. 

Open up the bias tape and stitch the short ends right sides together making sure you move the bodice pieces out of the way.  Re-fold the bias tape and press. Join the previous stitching line around the neckline at 1/4" seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and press the seam allowance toward the bias. Understitch the bias tape by stitching close to the seam on the right side of the fabric catching the seam allowance underneath. Understitching helps the fabric to role to the inside of the garment making the bias invisible from the outside.

Press the bias to the wrong side of the neckline and stitch in place next to the inner fold. 

Now your inside looks as pretty as the outside!! Bias facings in self fabric or even a fun contrast fabric are a great way to get a professional and personalized finish.

** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 

which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Hathaway Tank and Tillery Skirt

There's a new woven tank pattern in town! Take a look at the Hathaway Tank by Blank Slate Patterns. This easy to sew pattern will be a staple in summer, but works equally well for layering in the cooler months.

The Hathaway Tank pattern features a scoop or V neckline with bias bound neck and armholes. My favorite part is that it only takes 1 yard of 60" wide fabric for sizes up to a large. I've used a mystery poly rayon blend that my great aunt must have saved from an old skirt. 

The scoop neck tank pattern required only two pattern pieces with an optional pocket. The v-neck tank version has an additional pattern piece for cutting the bias at the V. The only adjustments I made to the Hathaway Tank pattern were for adding length, 1/4" at the shoulder and 1/2" at the lengthen/shorten line. This tank is so fast to sew that I've already made 3. Keep watch over on Instagram for more.

I've paired my Hathaway with the Tillery Skirt by Blank Slate Patterns. This is my second Tillery, and you can find the first Tillery Skirt here. This time I added the front pockets. The fabric is a coral stretch denim from Joann Fabrics. Skirts and dresses are some of my favorite things to wear in the summer!

** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 

which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Esma Top Hacked to Dress

Most days during this shelter in place situation, I am dressed in my workout gear which is great for ensuring I get my workouts in. Some days it does seem to improve my mood when I put on makeup and fix my hair though. Finishing this Esma Top to dress hack was a great excuse to dress up even for a couple hours. The Esma Top by Blank Slate Patterns is great basic, easy fit pattern to have in your stash.

Check out the original Esma top makes here. I hacked the Esma top into a dress once already simply by adding length. This time I opted for more of a babydoll dress look with a gathered skirt. 

I wanted this dress to be a bit higher waisted, so I determined the bodice length from top of shoulder to 1" above my natural waist would be 17" including seam allowances (1/2" at shoulder and 1/2" at waist). I simply cut the top front and back pattern piece off with a straight line to create the new bodice pattern piece. 

Next, I determined the length and width of the skirt rectangles. I wanted the finished dress to be 36" long, so I started with 36" + 1" shoulder seam allowance + 1/2" hem allowance = 37.5". From there 37.5" - 17" bodice length = 20.5". Add in the seam allowance at the waist for 20.5" + 1" = 21.5". My skirt height needed to be 21.5". For the skirt width, I measured the flat width of the bodice. For a flat width of 19", use 19" + 1" seam allowance = 20". To allow for gathers I used 1.5 times this width, so 20" x 1.5 = 30". To complete the dress, I cut two rectangles 21.5"h x 30"w, stitched the side seams RST to create a tube, gathered the top of the tube, and attached it to the bodice. The final step was creating a 1/4" hem.

This is such a simple way to create a v-neck babydoll dress, since the most difficult part, the bodice fitting, is already done for you. When you have a great base like the Esma Top, the pattern hacks are endless. I used a linen from Joann's that I purchased last summer. I'd love to see this dress style in rayon challis too.

Verbena Dress by Blank Slate Patterns

The Verbena Dress and Peplum Top is here! Let me introduce you to this latest sewing pattern from Blank Slate Patterns.

The Verbena sewing pattern comes with a dress and peplum top view. 

More features include:

• Scoop or V neckline
• Snug fit through shoulders, bust, waist, and sleeves
• Invisible elastic reinforcement at the slightly above-waist seam
• Short, elbow, 3/4, and long set-in sleeve options
• For light- to medium-weight knit fabrics with four-way stretch only (DBP or cotton/spandex recommended)
• Sizes:  Women's XXS-3X (bust 30-53")

The most unique aspect of the Verbena pattern is the tiered style. While there are plenty of tiered dresses on the market, Verbena starts with a 3/4 circle skirt upper tier that minimizes bulk at the waistline. The lower tier connects with a ruffle that adds to the interest of the dress.

I sewed the Verbena Dress with a scoop neck and elbow length sleeves using a rayon spandex knit from Joann. This fabric grew on me a bit, so I would suggest hanging the dress overnight and checking the hemline before actually sewing the hem if you use this type of fabric.

As far as personal adjustments go, I added 1 1/4" to the bodice for my height. The waist seam is designed to hit 1" above the natural waist. The pattern includes detailed instructions for taking your measurements and adjusting the bodice to get the placement just right. I ended up cutting off some inches off the bottom tier to even out my hem as I indicated above and have the length at just above my knee. 

The pattern includes 5 main pattern pieces depending on your neckline style, and you can opt to cut the bottom tier rectangles using an additional pattern piece or a cutting chart. The peplum portion comes together very quickly. The bottom tier to create the dress requires a bit more time as you are gathering and attaching a very long section of fabric. 

The Verbena Dress and Peplum Top is on sale for 20% off until Friday 3/13. Be sure to grab it now!

Tillery Skirt and Monroe Turtleneck

I've been on a mission this winter to sew a few basic turtlenecks. You've seen my Paola Turtleneck Tees, and now I bring you the FREE Monroe Turtleneck pattern paired with a Tillery Skirt by Blank Slate patterns. The combination makes for a great handmade winter style, especially in Texas where I can still keep my knees bare.

I purchased the gray and black sweater knit from Fabscrap in NYC during my visit in December. Fabscrap is a unique fabric shop whose aim is to reduce and reuse fabric waste from the fashion industry. I sewed up a straight size 2 in the Monroe Turtleneck which gives a boxy shape with fitted neck and sleeves. This is a must sew FREE pattern! I love how easy it is to wear with jeans and a half tuck. Just search the hashtag to see what I mean.

I confess that I continue to make skirts that look better on people with more of a defined waist, but I still like the result of this Tillery Skirt. I didn't add any length, but I did have to grade out the waist a bit for my rectangular shape. The bias finished waistband and flat felled seams result in the prettiest finishes on the inside. Be sure to check out the fun gingham detail on the inside. 

I had just enough corduroy left over from this Modkid Sierra Jumper for my tween. The Dritz Heavy Duty Snaps in Antique Brass were easy to install. I opted to skip the front pockets and belt loops, but I love the look both ways. I'd love to know if you have a favorite winter skirt pattern!

** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 

which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Bexley Dress for Winter

Do you wear many dresses in winter? When it gets really chilly I tend to avoid them, but I figured the right fabric would help insulate me from the cold. Since french terry is perfect for cozy sweatshirts, I wanted to give it a try for a dress. I love my summer Bexley dresses, so I also wanted a winter version. 

French terry is definitely not on the list of suggested fabrics for the Bexley Dress. The pattern is designed for knit fabrics with a lot more drape. While I knew this particular french terry met the pattern stretch requirements, I also knew it wouldn't lay the same way on my body. The great news is that the alteration to make it work is super simple!!

All it took was lowering the front and back darts, so they wouldn't sit too high. The pattern even includes instructions on raising and lowering darts! Keep in mind this is a thin to medium weight french terry. Anything too thick would make the darts too bulky.

Another option would be to omit the darts all together for a more swing-y shape.

I'm super thankful for the more mild winters we have in Texas, but I still want to stay cozy as those temperatures dip!