How to Sew a Fully Lined Tank

Wednesday, September 9, 2020

how to line the hathaway tank

The Hathaway Woven Tank Sewing Pattern by Blank Slate Patterns is drafted with bias tape finishes at the neckline and armscye resulting in an easy, breezy tank. When is comes to sheer or eyelet fabrics, however, you may want to include a full lining. Let me walk you through the process of sewing a fully lined Hathaway Tank. 

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

The lining fabric should be something lightweight. I choose a white cotton lawn. Cut the front and back pieces of both the main fabric and the lining. Trim 1/2" from the bottom of the front and back lining pieces to ensure the hem will not show in the finished garment.

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

Sew the front and back main pieces right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance at the shoulder. Repeat for the lining pieces. Press all seams open.

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

With right sides together, pin the lining piece to the main piece. Sew around the neckline with 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the curves the press the seam allowance toward the lining. 

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

From the right side of the lining. understitch the seam allowance to the lining around the neckline to prevent the lining from rolling to the outside of the garment.

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

Here is where we are going to employ the "burrito method" to finish the armscye. With the tank flat, roll the fabric from one side to the opposite strap like you are rolling up a burrito with the filling inside. With the bodice rolled inside, you can pin the armscye right sides together. Stitch with a 1/4" seam allowance all around the armscye. Repeat for the other armscye. Clip seams and turn right side out and press well. 


The burrito method is a bit challenging to show in photo format. Melissa Mora of Melly Sews has a great video to demonstrate the process.

Lined Woven Tank Tutorial

Open up the tank. Align the side raw edges right sides together. Make sure the front lining is right sides together with the back lining, and the main front is right sides together with the main back. Sew the side seams with 1/2" seam allowance from the hem of the lining to the hem of the main fabric.

Lined Tank Tutorial

The last step is to hem the lining and main pieces independently. 

How to line the Hathaway Tank
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which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Vero Beach Set

Friday, July 24, 2020


Hey June just released a pattern set that screams casual wear, but packs plenty of details. The Vero Beach Set is two patterns in one featuring a slightly oversized hoodie designed for woven fabrics and elastic waist shorts.


The Vero Beach set hoodie is perfect for throwing on over a swimsuit or to ward off the air conditioner chills. The block print cotton fabric has been in my stash for a while from my great aunt. It washed up a bit crinkle-y like a seersucker fabric which is perfect for the casual vibes of the outfit.



In case the details are getting lost in the bold print, I wanted to highlight a few. Adrianna included several finish options for the hood seam. I selected the french seam finish. The placket provides a nice place to add a pop of contrast if you choose, and the bias neckline finishes things off nicely. The kangaroo pocket is a great place to play with extra topstitching or tuck in a tag.


For the Vero Top, I made a size 8. Adding 1/2" in bodice length was the only adjustment.


The Vero Shorts are both casual and comfortable. With pockets front and back, they are practical too! I had just enough tencel denim left over from my Greer Jumpsuit to make the shorts. I had even saved enough bias tape for the hem finish.


The waistband is designed for 2" elastic and includes an option for a drawstring. Two darts in the back reduce bunching keeping the fit smooth.


For the Vero Shorts, I shortened the rise in front 1" and 1/2" in the back. I used a size 10 at the waist slimmed to a size 8 at the hip.


 

The Vero Beach Set certainly isn't just for the beach! The fabric options are endless, so have fun making a few of each piece. I plan to!
** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 
which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Easy Bias Binding Tutorial with the Hathaway Tank

Thursday, July 9, 2020


The Hathaway Tank by Blank Slate Patterns is a great basic tank sewing pattern for woven fabrics. The pattern includes a store bought bias tape binding finish for the neckline and armholes. When sewing with delicate fabrics, I like to use self fabric bias binding or facing. "Self fabric" just mean the same fabric as the garment. 


What makes this an easy bias binding method is that you don't have to press that delicate fabric into multiple folds before you attach it. Any tip that speeds up a sewing project is a benefit in my book.


The fabric for this Hathaway Tank is Telio Verona Cotton Rayon Voile. The fabric is thin without being too sheer. For my size medium tank, the pattern only required one yard of fabric with enough scraps to cut bias strips for the binding. Let's get to the tutorial!

Easy Bias Binding Tutorial



The easy bias binding tutorial will focus on binding the neckline of the tank, but the same application works for the armholes. You will need to first cut 1.5" strips of fabric on the bias grainline. The total length of your bias tape should be at least as long as the distance around the neckline plus 1". For tips on cutting and connecting strips of bias tape, check out the tutorial from Made by Rae. Once you have your strip, press the bias tape in half wrong sides together. I told you this was easier than creating single fold bias binding!!


Make sure you have sewn in your stay stitching at the neckline before you proceed or you will risk a wavy, stretched out neckline. Pin your folded bias strip right sides together along the neckline aligning the raw edges. It may help to press the bias into the curved shape of the neckline as you go.


Stitch the bias strip to the neckline with a 1/4" seam allowance starting and stopping 1-2" before the ends. Trim the ends as needed so you can create a 1/2" seam allowance along the short ends. 


Open up the bias tape and stitch the short ends right sides together making sure you move the bodice pieces out of the way.  Re-fold the bias tape and press. Join the previous stitching line around the neckline at 1/4" seam allowance. 


Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and press the seam allowance toward the bias. Understitch the bias tape by stitching close to the seam on the right side of the fabric catching the seam allowance underneath. Understitching helps the fabric to role to the inside of the garment making the bias invisible from the outside.


Press the bias to the wrong side of the neckline and stitch in place next to the inner fold. 


Now your inside looks as pretty as the outside!! Bias facings in self fabric or even a fun contrast fabric are a great way to get a professional and personalized finish.


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which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Seaforth Pants by Hey June Handmade

Friday, July 3, 2020

Seaforth Pants and Biscayne Blouse by Hey June

Timing was everything for this pattern test with Hey June Handmade. I couldn't help but speed through my Seaforth Pants tester version, so I could photograph them by the sea.


Seaforth Pants and Biscayne Blouse by Hey June

This is the wide leg elastic pants pattern I've always hoped for without fully realizing it. There are just enough details to take the style from pajama pants to daytime or even evening pants. All without loosing any of the comfort. 

Seaforth Pants by Hey June

There is another view for the Seaforth Pattern two! View B includes the same front and back pockets, but features a slimmer leg with elastic at the ankle. It makes the perfect woven jogger look.

Seaforth Pants by Hey June

The zipper welt pockets steal the show. Using a metal zipper gives the perfect finish. I found matching brass eyelets for the drawstring in my stash too. The brass zippers come in a huge variety of colors from Wawak. I used the triple stitch on my machine to make the topstitching a bit more dramatic, a little trick I learned from Melissa.

Seaforth Pants by Hey June

Linen blends were highly recommended for the Seaforth Pattern, so I used Robert Kaufman Essex Yarn Dyed Linen in black. The peach Biscayne Blouse I made last year completed the vacation look, relaxed yet put together.

Seaforth Pants by Hey June

I made a size 10 in the waist slimmed down to a 6 just below the hip. Other adjustments include reducing the rise 1/2", plus an additional 1/2" in the front only, and lengthening the leg by 1 1/4".

The Seaforth pattern by Hey June is on sale through today, so be sure to grab a copy. I can't wait to make a View B!
** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 
which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

Hathaway Tank and Tillery Skirt

Thursday, July 2, 2020


There's a new woven tank pattern in town! Take a look at the Hathaway Tank by Blank Slate Patterns. This easy to sew pattern will be a staple in summer, but works equally well for layering in the cooler months.


The Hathaway Tank pattern features a scoop or V neckline with bias bound neck and armholes. My favorite part is that it only takes 1 yard of 60" wide fabric for sizes up to a large. I've used a mystery poly rayon blend that my great aunt must have saved from an old skirt. 


The scoop neck tank pattern required only two pattern pieces with an optional pocket. The v-neck tank version has an additional pattern piece for cutting the bias at the V. The only adjustments I made to the Hathaway Tank pattern were for adding length, 1/4" at the shoulder and 1/2" at the lengthen/shorten line. This tank is so fast to sew that I've already made 3. Keep watch over on Instagram for more.


I've paired my Hathaway with the Tillery Skirt by Blank Slate Patterns. This is my second Tillery, and you can find the first Tillery Skirt here. This time I added the front pockets. The fabric is a coral stretch denim from Joann Fabrics. Skirts and dresses are some of my favorite things to wear in the summer!
** This post contains affiliate links.  By purchasing through my links, I receive a small compensation 
which I will in turn use to share more inspiration with you.**

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