Blank Slate Esma Pattern Hack

Friday, September 25, 2020

Esma Top Pattern Hack Sewing Tutorial

Pattern hacks are fun to create and add variety to your favorite styles in your wardrobe. Melissa has been sharing a variety of hacks on the Blank Slate Patterns Esma Top lately, and I have already shared two styles of dress hacks with you before. Today, I have a fun contrast center stripe tutorial to add to the Esma Top

Esma Top Pattern Hack

Esma Top by Blank Slate Patterns

I created the center stripe to wrap up and around the neckline. Using the facing as a guide to create the new pieces, results in a clean finish inside and out.

Describing the pattern pieces may be the most difficult part, but bear with me. First trace the front facing on the front bodice of the top. Next, extend a curve down to a straight line offset from the center front fold line. Mine is 1.75" from the fold line, but adjust as needed keeping in mind it will be cut on the fold. Trace the new facing seam line onto another piece of paper. Add a 1/2" seam allowance toward the facing side on the bodice front. Add a 1/2" seam allowance toward the bodice side on the new center facing. Cut out the pieces on the seam allowance line.

Repeat this process with the back facing pieces.

Cut two front bodices mirrored, two front facings on the fold, two back facings on the fold, and one back bodice on the fold, along with your sleeves.

Using the original facing pattern pieces, cut 1 front and 1 back of interfacing. Apply the interfacing to the one new front and back facing pieces.

Sew the shoulder seam of the front and back facing pieces right sides together and press open. Press the outer edge of the facing to the wrong side 3/8" and set aside. Do not press at the short bottom end.

Sew the shoulder seams right sides together for the contrast pieces and the front and back bodice pieces. Press the seams of the contrast piece open. Finish the seams of the bodice and press toward the front.

Pin the contrast piece right sides together with the bodice up the center and around the neckline. Be sure to align the shoulder seams. In the photo, the right side of the bodice is turned to face the right side of the contrast piece. Stitch from the bottom of the bodice, up around the neckline and back down the other side of the contrast.

Clip the seams and press seam allowance toward the contrast.

With the bodice right side up, lay the facing right sides together. Pin and stitch around the neckline. 

Clip the curve and V at the neckline. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch along the right side of the facing.

Press the facing to the wrong side of the bodice with the raw edge still pressed under. Pin along the seam line and stitch in the ditch catching the facing on the inside for a clean finish. Continue with the pattern instructions for side seams, sleeves, and hem. Done!

Esma Top Tutorial for Contrast Center Stripe
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